Dandelion seed head |
University of Bristol Botanic Garden |
young people seem to be committed to green ways; this problem arose through successive generations and perhaps it can be cured in the same way, the passing down of knowledge as we go.
University of Bristol Botanic Garden
Lose yourself in the world of plants…
Dandelion seed head |
University of Bristol Botanic Garden |
young people seem to be committed to green ways; this problem arose through successive generations and perhaps it can be cured in the same way, the passing down of knowledge as we go.
By Claire Cope |
Having worked as a trainee at the Botanic Garden for nearly two years I am now coming to the end of my time with the garden. I have learned more than I thought possible to learn in just two years, have gained my RHS qualifications, have had the opportunity to work with an amazing range of plants and have acquired a huge amount of practical horticultural experience. Best of all, I have had the opportunity to work alongside some very wonderful people who have shared their knowledge and passion with me and have made me feel very welcomed into this beautiful community.
Squash originated in South America and was one of the ‘three sisters’. |
been being cultivated for so many years. Many plants that today we consider as staples such as tomatoes, potatoes, beans, corn, squash, and peppers were originally cultivated thousands of years ago by native civilisations such as the Inca, Maya and Aztec peoples.
Quinoa |
Cyclanthera pedata |
of before which have the potential to be incorporated into western food production in the future. For instance – I really enjoyed growing the Cyclanthera pedata ‘Fat Baby’ and ‘Bolivian Giant’. These were vigorous climbers which produced very strange spikey green fruits which tasted just like a cucumber!
Some of the cultivars chosen for the display had really interesting stories – for example the beans we grew, Phaseolus vulgaris ’Cherokee trail of tears’, were originally from the native American Cherokee people who were driven out of their homelands by European settlers – a forced march know as ‘Trail of Tears’. This bean was one of their heirlooms which has been passed from generation to generation ever since.
Connect with Nature in any way you can. Contact with the natural world isn’t a luxury – it is actually a necessity for all of us. All we know about the natural world gives us pleasure, delight, expertise, continuous interest throughout the year – joy on many occasions and solace on sad ones. Knowing about the natural world and being in contact with it is the most precious inheritance that human beings can have.
Even containers in small spaces help make a connection with nature. |
For me, one of the highlights at the University of Bristol Botanic Garden is the giant waterlily (Victoria cruziana) that lives in the pond in the tropical glass house. Its enormous leaves, which can reach 2 metres in diameter, are studded with spines on the underside and always provide ample wow factor for visiting children (my own included).
The seeds of Victoria cruziana are kept wet. Photo credit: Andy Winfield |
Andy scores the seeds with secateurs before sowing. Photo credit: Nicola Rathbone |
Victoria cruziana grows around the edges of water bodies and in wetland areas where there is no forest canopy. In order to replicate the amount of daily sun it would be receiving in the tropics and sub-tropics, grow lights on a 12h on/12h off cycle were hung above the pots. Then the whole contraption was covered in plastic film to reduce evaporation and maintain humidity.
likely to grow quite quickly. Andy and the rest of the team at the Garden will pot them on several
times, gradually reducing their water temperature. At the same time, Bristol temperatures will be increasing and the tropical glasshouse will start getting warmer, as will the pool. By the time the Victoria plants have a few decent leaves, the temperatures between the tropical pool and the plants will have become similar enough that Victoria can be put into the planters in the pond.
The annual light intensity here in Bristol is considerably less than Victoria cruziana would receive in South America. However, the long summer days here mean that during those months more solar radiation is received here in a single day than in tropical South America. This helps Victoria cruziana flourish in the Botanic Garden tropical pool over the summer and it will be worth a visit to see it in flower. See the series of photos below taken the day the seeds were sown.
Andy prepares the loamy mix for sowing. Photo credit: Nicola Rathbone |
The seeds are sown into a loamy mix. Photo credit: Nicola Rathbone |
The soil is covered with a horticultural grit. Photo credit: Nicola Rathbone |
The seeds are sown and are ready for immersion in a nice warm bath. Photo credit: Andy Winfield |
The pots immersed in the warm bath. Photo credit: Nicola Temple |
Only one week after sowing, the embryonic stem has emerged and is stretching for the surface. Photo credit: Nicola Temple |
Some of the Amaranthus caudatus Helen has grown from seed at home. Photo credit: Helen Roberts. |
Blooms of the Cardiocrinum giganteum var yunnanense – the Giant Yunnan Lily. Photo credit: Col Ford and Natasha de Vere [via Flicr CC licence 2.0] |
As we roll into spring, gardeners eagerly collect packets of flower and vegetable seed to plant in their gardens. I have my disorganised pile of seeds ready and waiting, nestled in their respective packets, overflowing out of a tin stored on my kitchen dresser. Random seed that I have gleaned from gardens over the course of the year can be found in bags and random pockets.
Companion planting. Photo credit: Brian Pettinger courtesy of Flickr. |
My vegetable garden at home is minuscule and consists of a number of pots in the front and rear garden. I don’t own a greenhouse but use an area in my parent’s and beg ground from a friend to grow larger vegetables. Space is limited and therefore my crop is valuable. I don’t want attacks by cabbage white or carrot fly, I need to grow at different levels to maximise space and grow a wide range of small crops to give a varied meal. This has made me think more about what I can do to increase my crop productivity. I never use pesticides or herbicides in my garden and my resolve in this has been reinforced by recent press coverage over the importance of urban gardens for pollinators. I actually quite like cabbage white butterflies – my children do anyway – and they would be horrified if they knew I sprayed to rid the garden of them. Instead, I have decided to use the art of companion planting.
Companion planting is an age-old agricultural technique used for centuries across the world. It involves the idea of planting crops that are mutually beneficial to each other in order to increase productivity.
Companion planting has a very wide number of benefits and uses:
It is best not to put all of your eggs in one basket when growing crops – grow a mix of crops rather than a monoculture so if one crop fails you have other crops as a fall back option. Moreover, a mix of crops will make it more difficult for pests to find their host plants, a hypothesis known as the ‘disruptive-crop hypothesis’.
The other advantage is, if like me your garden is space constrained, you can plant on different levels. For example, a tall crop (such as corn) can provide a trellis support for a climbing crop (such as beans) and a ground crop (such as squash) provides shade and discourages weeds. You get three crops in a small amount of space and the companion plants provide physical advantages for the other crops.
Some plants provide shelter and shade for other plants; for example, the planting of corn can provide shade for lettuce or spinach (although most vegetable planting in this country requires as much sun as possible). Companion plants can also provide refuges for many beneficial insects.
Marigolds are supposed to help keep aphids away from tomato plants. Photo credit: Ruth Hartnup (on Flickr). |
Companion planting is also supposedly helpful in pest suppression through the release of repellent chemicals. Numerous companion plants also attract beneficial insects, such as ladybirds and lacewings, which predate on crop pests and many of these insects also act as important pollinators. Some plant species are used as ‘trap-crops’ drawing the attention of pests away from the crop and acting as sacrificial plants. Companion plants also provide a visual distraction to pests. In a monoculture, pests move easily from one plant to another, but companion plants break up this assault.
It is hard to know whether some traditional planting combinations that have endured the decades are based on any sound evidence of benefits. Certainly there is plenty of information about companion planting in the popular press and gardening books, but most is not backed up by any rigorous scientific trials in the peer reviewed literature. In academic literature, experimental results investigating the use of certain companion plants are varied as to their effectiveness. Here are some examples that I have come across:
I learned from my maternal grandfather to plant Allium species in amongst my carrot rows to help deter the pesky carrot fly, Psila rosae. This annoying pest feeds not only on the roots of carrots but also on other crops too including parsnip, celery, parsley and celeriac. The small 9 mm creamy white maggots cause scarring of the tap roots making them inedible and more prone to secondary rots. This year I plan to plant my carrots in amongst garlic chives, a plant similar to the onion chive and which also produces pretty white edible flowers.
It is generally thought that aromatic species deter pests by exuding repellent chemicals. Most relevant to the carrot-allium combination was a study that looked at mixed cropping of onion and carrots and the effects on pests of these crops. They found that there were reduced attacks by carrot fly compared to monocultures of both crops and that when the plants were planted together in high densities this also reduced plant pests and increased predators of carrot fly eggs. Stan Finch and his colleagues from Horticulture Research International in Warwick found no evidence that odours from aromatic plants repel or deter crop pests, suggesting that reduced attacks on host plants were a result of other mechanisms, such as simple disruptive effect.
I am not a big fan of Tagetes species, more commonly known as marigolds. They just remind me of old fashioned bedding plants in staid Victorian parks, but if they ward off pests in the vegetable plot then I am willing to use them. Tagetes sp. exude a strong odour that is apparently not pleasant for plant pests. They are supposedly useful to plant with tomatoes to ward off greenfly but I have yet to find any scientific literature to support this planting combination. Again, Finch and his associates specifically found that it was not the odour of the marigolds that repelled the pests, but simply the fact that they acted as a diversion for the pests.
I often grow pots of nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) in my garden. I like the look of the flowers and especially the leaves, using them as salad garnishes and the seed to make capers. This plant is said to help attract black fly, aphids and other pests away from host plants acting as a crop trap and functioning as a sacrificial plant. There are mixed results as to whether nasturtiums really do this. One year in my garden I grew cabbage and nasturtium together and both crops were smothered in cabbage white caterpillars. The butterflies definitely did not show a preference for the Nasturtium and the caterpillars eventually obliterated both plants. Certainly there is not a wide range of recent academic literature investigating the use of nasturtiums as a companion plant. However, according to the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), this plant is beneficial to pollinators and as I can also eat it, I plan to trial a variety known as Blue Pepe, known for its distinctive bluish leaves and bright red flowers.
The scientific literature on many companion plant combinations is mixed, but what is clear is that there are no disadvantages to using companion planting. The physical advantages of companion planting will be evident even if the other benefits are less obvious, and many companion plants can be found in the RHS’s ‘Perfect for Pollinators plant list‘. Even if you don’t get increased crop productivity, then the garden will be diverse and look beautiful too.
Helen Roberts is a trained landscape architect with a background in plant sciences. She is a probationary member of the Garden Media Guild and a regular contributor to the University of Bristol Botanic Garden blog.
Associate Professor Jane Mt. Pleasant
Uvah, I. I. I. and Coaker, T. H. Effect of mixed cropping on some insect pests of carrots and onions. Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata 1984; 36: 159-167
Finch, S., Billiald, H. and Collier, R. H. Companion planting-do aromatic plants disrupt host-plant finding by the cabbage root fly and the onion fly more effectively than non-aromatic plants? Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata 2003; 109: 183-195
At the start of December, I met up with Penny Harms, Glasshouse Co-ordinator at the University of Bristol Botanic Garden, to discuss the plants that are propagated at the Garden and how this valuable work is carried out. Over the course of the year, I will be investigating the different forms of propagation techniques used in the Garden to maintain and enhance their existing stock of plants. I will cover briefly how these techniques are carried out (bearing in mind that there are a plethora of books available on plant propagation), but I’ll also examine what is happening at the cellular level and examine the ‘why’ behind certain propagating techniques.
As Penny and I examined some seedling plants, she explained to me why propagation is so important at the Botanic Garden. “If we lose some plants outdoors in a cold wet winter, we have a back up of new plants. Some are not simply insurance plants, but are taken as cuttings as a necessity every year as they survive in our climate as annuals, particularly those plants from the South African collection. Others, such as the Mediterranean plants, do not survive as long here in Bristol as it’s generally much wetter and therefore they need to be replaced fairly frequently. Most plants we take from cuttings are mainly tender perennials and frost tender plants.”
Propagation in the Garden won’t likely restart until the spring depending on weather conditions.
In the glasshouses, Penny showed me many of the plants that have been propagated from cuttings, including some beautiful decorative Aeonium species (commonly known as tree houseleek), as well as Pelargonium (geranium), Clematis, Salvia and Passiflora (passion vines) species. Some plants raised from cuttings are placed in a unit that is misted with water regularly and the bottom is heated to a temperature of 25°C in order to encourage roots to form. The plants all looked wonderfully healthy, not at all like my puny looking specimens that I had taken cuttings of back in September at home. However, the plants that really caught my eye were some small fern plants potted up, which Penny called “fernlets”.
Ferns belong to the plant division of pteridophytes (spore-producing vascular plants) and are extremely diverse in habitat, form and reproductive methods. Most ferns grow in moist warm conditions and very few tolerate dry cold places. Although they aren’t flowering plants, the frond shapes and colours can be exquisite. Closer inspection of the undersides of the leaves reveal beautiful patterns of sporangia – the vessels containing the spores.
Fern lifecycle Image credit: Carl Axel Magnus Lindman [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons |
Like other plants, ferns have alternating haploid (single set of chromosomes) and diploid (two sets of chromosomes – one from each parent) generations; the haploid gametophyte produces the cells for sexual reproduction while the diploid sporophyte produces spores that produce the gametophyte. Unlike flowering plants where the gametophyte is reduced to the pollen and embryo sac, fern gametophytes are free-living. (Although they are admittedly less conspicuous than the sporophyte we generally identify as ferns.)
In brief, the sporophyte produces spores, which are shed and grow into gametophytes (also often called the prothallium). In some species, individual gametophytes will be either male or female, while in others an individual gametophyte will function as both sexes. When the conditions are right, the gametophyte releases mature sperm from the antheridium, which swim to the egg-producing part called the archegonia under the gametophyte’s underside. Fertilisation produces a zygote, which develops into an embryo and eventually outgrows the gametophyte to become the sporophyte.
The plantlet sailboats on the fronds of Woodwardia prolifera. Photo credit: Andy Winfield. |
Like many other plants, ferns can also reproduce asexually through branching of the underground root stem or rhizome. Some species will even produce leaf proliferations known as plantlets or offsets, such as the beautiful Woodwardia prolifera, which comes from Asia and grows in coastal regions. It’s small plantlets (or “sailboats” as Penny calls them) drop off the plant and fall to the ground, securing themselves quickly with their roots.
Fern spores are carefully collected when the ferns are sporolating by cutting fronds and letting spores fall into paper bags. Spores are only collected when they are ripe; usually the sporangia will swell and will turn brown, black, blue or orange depending on the species.
“As far as when to collect the spores,” said Penny, “it is really a case of watching and waiting. The beautiful orange [sporangia] on the Phlebodium aureum var glaucum go a slightly darker brown when they are ready, which makes it easier to know when to collect. And if you lightly tap the frond over some white paper you can watch to see if the spores are being released.”
The underside of a frond from Phelbodium aureum var. glaucum, showing the sporangia. Photo: Andy Winfield. |
Penny added that she often collects additional spores by simply placing a fern frond onto a tray containing already wetted peat-neutral compost with bark mulch to allow spores to drop onto the substrate. Penny had great success growing new plants from spores harvested from a miniature tree fern species called Blechnum gibbum. This plant was looking in a sorry state before the move to The Holmes at Stoke Bishop and so Penny collected spores just in case it didn’t survive the move. However, research revealed that this fern was behaving like a deciduous plant -it had died back, but wasn’t dead. Thanks to Penny’s careful propagation, the glasshouse now holds a number of specimens from this species – all grown from spores of the original plant.
Some the glasshouse ferns are also epiphytic and will reproduce effectively from spores. One such example is Stenochlaena tenufolia, a South African fern that will grow up trees. Its climbing rhizome can reach up to 20m in length and 15mm in diameter. As young plants, they start off on the ground, but soon start to ascend trees, trading in their connection with the soil for life in the trees. Often plants don’t produce fertile fronds until the rhizome has climbed sufficiently to expose the apical region of the plant to sufficient light. These ferns are grown both from spores and vegetatively at the Botanic Garden.
Other species require a different approach. Diplazium proliferum, a fern that is widespread in the tropics and subtropics, produces little rooting plantlets along its fronds that can be developed into new plants. The frond is simply cut and laid onto bark mulch, pegged with wire and then half buried with the substrate.
The chain fern, Woodwardia radicans (from the Macaronesian region but also found on other Mediterranean islands) also produces bulbils but these are usually located at the ends of the fronds as a hard nodule. The roots start to develop in the air but when they touch the ground will root into the substrate and form new plants.
Penny explained, “We got these plants from Tresco where they grow as huge sprawling mounds. The small bulbils eventually form quite large plants, but are still connected to the original. This gives this fern its very relevant name. New plants can simply have the connection cut and be dug up and transplanted elsewhere.”
At the Botanic Garden ferns are being propagated very successfully, but there is no reason why horticulturists at home should not be able to have the same degree of success. Penny offers her expert advice in propagating ferns by spores below:
Ferns can be propagated vegetatively, by division, or similar to sowing seed from flowering plants, by spores, which are found on the underside of the fern fronds. Some fern species are very difficult to propagate from spores, however Adiantum, Pteris and many Blechnum species are reliable.
Here are the main points for the propagation of cool glasshouse ferns from spores:
- The spores should be collected when ripe. The sporangia found on the underside of the frond, will (in most cases) change in colour from a light to dark brown to indicate the spores are ripe. To check, lightly tap the frond to see whether the tiny brown spore cases (sori) are released. If so, the fronds can be cut and gently placed into paper bags in order to collect the fine sori ready for sowing (see point 2) or the frond can be cut and placed directly onto the surface of a pre-prepared tray of compost, allowing the spores to fall naturally as the frond dies away.
- Sow the fern spores. Collect the spores from the bottom of the paper bag and sow immediately. Fresh spores will germinate far more successfully than ones that have been kept for some time and dried out. Use clean, shallow, pots and/or trays with drainage holes. Place a fine layer of gravel on the bottom. Add a layer of peat-free, fine grade compost and gently firm down. Stand the pots and/or trays in water to allow the compost to absorb the water. When the compost is wet, lightly and evenly sow the spores over the surface of the compost. The spores are very fine and on no account should they be covered with more compost, as this will prevent them from germinating.
- Keep moist. The trays and/or pots should be covered either with a propagator lid or glass and stood in a shallow tray of water. It is important that the compost does not dry out.
- Position in a semi shaded spot ideally at temperature of 16 – 20°C.
- Once the spores start to germinate, the young fern plants (prothalli) should become visible within a couple of weeks. Allow the prothalli to establish themselves for a little while before moving on to the next stage, that of pricking out the delicate new plants.
Moisture is the most important element for the successful propagation of ferns.
Bridge in Sheffield Park Garden. Photo credit: ReflectedSerendipity courtesy Flickr [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons |
Osborne House from the road to Swiss Cottage. Photo credit: By Loz Pycock from London, UK [CC BY-SA 2.0 ], via Wikimedia Commons |
Zoe in Rwanda. |
Bifrenaria harrisoniae by Orchi. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons |
Matt Croucher, a Work and Retrain as a Gardener Scheme (WRAGS) trainee, talks to Helen Roberts about working at the University of Bristol Botanic Garden, what first got him interested in botany and his aspirations within the horticultural profession.
I met up with Matt mid morning in the potting up area of the Garden. He was delicately placing seed into pots to supplement what is already planted in the ballast seed garden, an area for which he has sole responsibility. As he carried on with the task at hand, I asked him what first drew him to study horticulture, having previously come from a background in website design.
“My girlfriend and I had moved house and decided to get an allotment. Plants became important to me when I first started working on our own allotment and my interest in horticulture just emerged from that. However, even as a child I always had a small piece of the garden to grow something; I think an interest was probably always there.”
Matt started volunteering at the beautiful 10 acre gardens at Goldney Hall in Clifton, owned by the University of Bristol, and from there secured a WRAGS traineeship at the Botanic Garden. WRAGS provides hands-on practical training in horticulture, with the trainee working under the guidance of staff at a host location. WRAGS trainees do not receive funding from the scheme itself; rather, the scheme acts as an organizer and coordinator, helping to find trainees suitable host placements. Matt is funded by Perennial, a charity organisation that helps to support people in horticulture. He has also gained experience at a number of larger estates, including the National Trust property of Tyntesfield.
Matt started his traineeship with the University of Bristol Botanic Garden in August 2014, and will work two days a week there for a year. When he’s not at the Botanic Garden, he is working for a local landscape firm and studying for the RHS Level II course at the Garden.
As we take a walk through the gardens I ask Matt about a typical day’s work and what it involves.
“A typical day at the Botanic Garden is never really the same. One of the first things I do when I arrive is water the tropical houses. After that, I could be working on a range of different tasks. For instance, last week I was helping to re-pot the water lilies in the main pond and apply a solution containing nematode worms to control vine weevils to different plants. No one day is the same and that makes the work really interesting.”
He also had the chance to go further afield with work when he took a trip down to Chelsea Physic Garden with fellow trainee, Zoe Parfitt, and curator Nick Wray to collect eight specimens of Welwitschia mirablis, a rare ancient cone-bearing plant from the Namib coastal desert.
Matt holding the Welwitschia mirablis. |
Matt showed me the Welwitschia mirablis potted up very neatly and snugly sitting in a specially constructed heated planter. They are indeed very weird looking plants and although I thought they looked small and were therefore probably not that old, they are already 25 years old. Matt was obviously really pleased to be involved in the collecting and potting up of these plants, which are a valuable addition to the plant collection.
“It was amazing to go to the Chelsea Physic garden and have the chance to help out with the Welwitschia. Nick Wray said to me that I would probably only get the opportunity once in a lifetime to pot up something that is so unique.”
Matt’s deep-rooted (excuse the pun) fascination with horticulture was evident as we talked about the plants whilst strolling through the different areas of the gardens. He relishes the time he spends on his own allotment and is now successfully growing and selling plants from his plot to friends and clients. He is also an avid collector of interesting plants, taking cuttings whenever and wherever he can; his home is crammed full of greenery. Towards the end of the tour, Matt sums up his training at the Botanic Garden and tells me of his plans for his horticultural career.
“The experience I have gained at the Botanic Garden has been invaluable and has enabled me to secure work at large estates, such as Tyntesfield. Ultimately, I would love to secure a full time position at a botanic garden.”
WRAGS was launched in 1993 and was originally intended for women returning to work after starting a family. Though the scheme is still administered through the Women’s Farm & Garden Association, it is no longer just for women. Matt is among an increasing number of men applying for the scheme – many of which are career changers. To learn more about the scheme, visit wfga.org.uk.